Drywall skim coat topping trowel11/5/2023 You'll definitely get better with time, and before you know it, you'll be skim coating like a pro. However, I think the key to keep in mind if you're going to attempt to skim coat, Rome wasn't built in a day, and your skim coat skills won't be acquired in an hour. It's not an easy or quick process by any means, but it's one that pretty much anyone with the desire to try it can do with a good amount of success. We hope you've enjoyed this rather long and drawn out process for fixing your flawed and failing plaster walls, and even making new drywall look more like old fashioned plaster. Would you believe it if I told you we have some tips and tricks to help you there as well? The wall may look dust free, but you'll be shocked with how much ends up on the towel.Īlright! You're ready to start your next step in your room, and if you're anything like us that's almost always crown moulding, but more on that step of the project in a future post. Keep the vacuum nearby to vacuum accumulated dust from the towel. Once you feel the entire wall has been vacuumed, use a rag towel and wipe down the corners of the room, then the entire wall and ceiling, making long and consistent strokes. If you put on a Shop-Vac attachment that allows you to slowly and methodically vacuum the entire wall you'll get the majority of the loose dust. This dust sits silently and unassumingly until you start to apply caulk or primer, where it pops up and ruins your work. The sanding, sanding, sanding, and more sanding has undoubtedly left a significant amount of dust all over the walls. The final step before you're ready to apply your primer and paint is to vacuum and towel the walls thoroughly. I use a combination of the large drywall sander, spent sanding discs, and small sanding pads, but I'm always using 180 grit or higher, otherwise you'll leave large scratches in the surface. Give it about 30 minutes to an hour to dry completely before grabbing your sander for the next step. Keeping the tools extra clean at this stage of the game will really help your finished result.īy the time you get to the last few areas it's likely the first places you fixed will almost be dry. At this point I like to pause for a second to wipe down the tools with a rag and water. If you start to notice more scratches showing up as your work progresses, it's likely that you've picked up little hardened pieces of dust on your trowel/knife. Keep mixing in additional compound to keep it pliable so you can keep working without the material getting too stiff or hard to work with. Try to get the skim as absolutely thin as possible, and try not to add any new scrapes or dings that you'll just need to sand out.Īs you work around the room the walls will begin sucking the moisture out of your material and it will dry very quickly, even right on your knife. ![]() ![]() Once you finish one circle, move right onto the next. Holding the light at a sharp angle to the surface just off to the side of the area you're inspecting causes the irregularities in the surface to cast shadows and reveal themselves. We have this weird makeshift light with multiple bulbs that we use for this very purpose. To help identify these issues it's best to grab a work light of some sort. Think of the next step as validation of your work if that's the case.Īs with overhead fluorescent lights highlighting the wrinkles in our skin and bags under our eyes, shadows and harsh light will show any significant issues that need resolution in your skim coat. At the very least, the next step is critical even if you feel your work is perfect (and if it is, awesome job). Before moving on, we need to identify and fix these areas. More often than not there are multiple places of significant imperfection that will really show up if you jump right to the primer stage of the project. ![]() ![]() Keep in mind, as good as it looks at this point, the skim coat's variation in color and texture actually hides most of any flaws, but they're likely there.
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